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March 2017
Ah the smell of Spring ... Sawdust
Web Links At the Meeting Last Meeting Notes Tip of the Month Editors Notes
Product Reviews

TWWWG Welcomes Instagram

Instagram logoI have established an Instagram account for the Guild. This will allow us to post pictures and link to them from the website without the virus risks that caused us issues before. The password will be in the hands of Jim, Gary Stephens and myself for right now. I will post a few more pix and somethat I've had sent me or from prior meetings. Then, as we get used to it, more pix will go up with more authorized posters. You may follow us as twwwgboard. If you don't have an Instagram account, use this link and bookmark us. Webstagram link to twwwgboard

From the President

Woodshop Tweet

Welcome to March.  As a reminder, this month's skill session (starts at 6pm in the middle classroom) will be "handplane tuneup".  If you've got a problem plane or new acquisition, bring it in and let's look at it and talk about what needs to happen to get it in shape.  I'll also have the planes discussed below to demonstrate.
Now if you haven't yet slid down the slippery slope of handplanes, one question you might have is "What are the first three planes I should buy?"  The answer, of course, is "It depends".  Lonnie Bird requires a block plane, smoothing plane (No. 4), and a medium shoulder plane for his fundamentals course.  Phil Lowe of the Massachusetts Institute of Furniture recommends a smoothing plane, large shoulder plane, and jointer (No. 7 or 8).  My recommendation is:

  • Scrub plane:  This deceptively simple plane can easily prepare rough stock for the jointer and planer.  In addition, it's highly cambered blade enables it to work figured wood with minimal tear-out using light, cross-grained cuts.,41182,48944,51871
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  • Block plane:  From cleaning up joints to smoothing end grain, this plane often is the most used plane in the shop.  Plus, a low angle model with an adjustable mouth and skewed blade, has significantly more capabilities.
  • Jack plane (No. 5):  This plane is the "jack" of all trades.  It can scrub, joint ,shoot and smooth with the appropriately cambered blade installed. The more you use it, the more you'll like it.

So much for planes. See you at Monday's meeting

Jim Francis

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At the Next Meeting - A Look at Don Newsome's New shop.

Don will talk about the process of giving life to his new shop. We hope he brings some great pictures and stories.

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Last Meeting Notes - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Surface Planers

Gary Stephens presented planer 101 and here are just a few of his notes. The function of a surface planer is to generate trash bags of saw dust. Planer anatomy: infield table and roller, cutterhead, outfeed table and roller, cut depth adjustment, and dust port. The infeed roller contacts the wood and pulls it into the planer. The wood encounters the cutterhead spinning in the opposite direction of feed. The outfeed roller pushed the wood out. If you get tear out, reversing the direction of the board may solve. Snipe is a gouge near the ends of the board. Happens when the board is not in the 2 rollers at the same time. Lifting up (slightly) on the end of the board while feeding and upon exiting can minimize snipe. Some plan for snipe by cutting boards longer than required and then final cut to length after planning. To spread the wear over the full length of the blade, do not always feed boards in the same place.

Tip of the Month - Planing Twisted Lumber

Last month Gary reminded us that you can't straighten a twisted board with a planer. You only get a thinner twisted board. Well, here's a tip that he talked about, using a sacrificial jig.
Rough lumber with a diagonal twist can be difficut to straighten, unless you use this trick. Joint the edges of the board and set it on a flat surface. Shim the two high corners, then rip two guide rails from scrap stock. Their height should be the same as the highest spot on the shimmed board and they should be cut from straight hardwood. Finish nail these in place, keeping the nails as close to the center of the gide rails as possible, so that they never come in contact with the planer knives. Then run the assembly through the planer (or a wide belt sander equipped with a coarse grit belt), alternating the sides. The top should be up on the first pass, down on the second and so forth, until the board is flat. The guide rails will keep the board perfectly aligned. This tip is from William Woodward of Pennsylvania.

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Editors Notes

I hope that the Instagram link satisfies some of your desire to see the work being done by our fellow craftsmen. Encourage anyone you know, including yourself, to share photos of your work.

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Tidewater Woodworking Guild
Site by President:Jim Francis Vice President:Gary Stephens Treasurer: Scott Paris
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